Here are the new shunt (on the left) and the old shunt next to each other:
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5lPMz46yBmzdrRXcdjf72T6fDGbdKHGKljoz3r5iKsp4C_wqssSoRu8GvhG85xbbLnhREU-M-BEUEPU6yMgMAjnpCh19WF0W8OgHvWR5PCvvurxS2PDdWimqX1akN0s-PCMSe_ZdmIFg/s320/001_TwoShunts.jpg)
Notice the discoloration and warping on the old shunt? Here is the same area from below:
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE-zY7W2ysjMVy5ZFo1IhgEZht16vKoA5szRC3rgtiZPuFS3ZFBY7_uiiUs340e57fQ-TCRlBTuUEf6kWCBzIleIak4IVYNmvVO2j611l9sFi0Sx4LTO6mlr0LT9vuf6s-cm40Y5992tg/s320/002_MeltyShunt.jpg)
Definite heat damage. It's not clear to me whether there had been a loose connection at some point (generating extra resistance == heat), or whether the 50A rating of this shunt was just exceeded too often, but it is clearly damaged. I'll monitor the new shunt for damage frequently for a while.
Driving with an operational ammeter is extremely useful. For one thing, I can see that my "normal" and "economy" modes indeed are not different - which I had *felt* but not proven. Both pull 50A max. I'll tweak that at some point. It would be useful to have something in between 50A (economy) and 150A+ (performance)...
Addendum: this is very similar to damage that Randy Pollock suffered (although not as extreme):
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI-onacTjV7pBjS26mHD2-_1Z8O9KWOGpawSp9snVIYnweY2D6Ij2hXIlIi7TUkxx4wwQ6raQOLozrmz6leGluETvxq7efAmCps9olk9YBHBzqg-WeDJJxbCvlLPhPS64wDQCyEw-kmKE/s320/RandyShuntDamage.jpg)
We have the same shunt, in the same system, and had the same failure. I don't think this is a coincidence.
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