![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7K4OhCq_QInGX8WBuFRXizLTtE2ly6Id3OEOAVAz30UwcSy5jnk7huo_yLhhsQzfnR_CdyNfTOLrtDHfg7dN8ZWc8Bf6PSbSiYAnhmbZGIf8NMzkBKJFNjDjbem8ad_0_Gr9nca5a-_Y/s320/RackPlaced.jpg)
It interferes with the suspension console, so it will not go any lower at this point:
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZQJJtXmQi9TUatoLKMSvdJTPABRaZHMYILZztSxc7-eSETCE7FD16ZwsjWa3_9qRdwG_MQdQsBAizgufQAat0av6cWhOAunEubwCy2OvEwn28h0TLRI_KXSkVPSZHrTMvJ5AaS-aBQD8/s320/ConsoleInterfere.jpg)
More significantly, it interferes with the motor / transmission mounting interface - this means it cannot move any farther back (and, in fact, the rack will rub against the motor if it is this far back). I am unable to make the rack level because of this interference (because I can't move it any farther back - the slope of the rear firewall prevents me from raising the front of the rack without moving it back):
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTvYJyZfwuARDz3cNJgRXf7Ai6Kj5uXvir2Bj0Hj9q_MtbTcdbOebTVbnoPAcv68CCBLtkw2JscPMwbTBoD-GsqYGRbpEnuMf5mjh-70ObtP56cjgLTZJo3SDp7sbQH0PMD2pvFWPV_Rc/s320/MotorInterfere.jpg)
As additional evidence, I used a square to measure the depth of the rack from the highest point of the divider between the trunk and engine compartment - 11 5/16 inches:
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh74PJjJ1aQ0K1dp-jFgS_UMz5XIncTvPH9AWDWmdKhEJQMeNQVe0ubdDDccuI-epcBdsiT-ot860LAVCRQM9HGqyBUSfXRoL59SE_pNMP-qnIeOGkEBZCqrkqIc972mvHueoIIqze1ZHM/s320/RackDepth.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG1QKaiofgXI5zRx2bBpoOy7R5ketD0GJ1R0C-G7Q6SMK5nDB6c_FHA4tbo-Yfpe6lq7sLZJlak7KUSt1Utz6zgRJHjUzmF7afMmOqJzoLTB_8weu3va2xbd5bJT731l051nZJP9qPbwg/s320/BoxHeight.jpg)
So, between the potential for friction / rubbing / etc. and the engine compartment cover not closing, I need to rethink the rubber mounting. I am reluctant to remove them. I'm considering instead dropping the engine mounting bar about an inch with steel or brass spacers. This would require a longer bolt, of course - not a big deal.